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Sir, The Trail is Closed

I think my goal for this one was to ride down Jefferson. In the end, that is what I did but I didn’t do it how I planned and I was a little upset about it. I started on the Riverfront Trail and wanted to ride down the new section in front of the Arch then loop around, go north on Jefferson and then hit my starting point by riding through downtown which would be downhill. That is not what happened. I still rode down Jefferson though.

It was gearing up to be a hot Sunday. It was early morning and it was already hot. I started down the trail passing in front of Laclede’s Landing. I did notice some barriers across Leonor K Sullivan but that didn’t seem to worry me. I kept going, that shouldn’t keep me from the trail. So I thought. I stop my bike to go walk the bike around the barriers and then hop back on the trail. Startled, as a man jumped out of a van exclaiming, “Sir, the trail is closed!”. Ok. Huh? I respond with why is the trail closed with a great degree of irritation. First of all, I’m not male. Second of all, nothing is going on. The trail isn’t obstructed. He adds that I can take my bike and ride below the trail on the cobblestones along the shore. I’m thinking, “are you kidding more or are you just stupid or do you think I’m stupid?”. It’s terrible just walking on those things and I’m supposed to ride my thin tire bike on them? Seriously? People that don’t ride bikes just don’t have a clue. Grumbling, I start walking my bike up the levee…up through Laclede’s Landing. I can’t ride because the bricks are just too rough and treacherous for my bike. In my mind I’m grumbling and trying regroup. Once I get to the I-70 overpass I guess I’ll just ride up to Jefferson.

dowtownwest-olive

I meander through Convention Plaza, Washington Ave, Lucas Ave then turn left on 14th and then right on to Olive and head up it gentle incline. Once I pass 18th street, I start to coast downhill until I start noticing a few things. First I recognize Korzendorfer and Bick Picture Framers. I remember getting frames from them for my BFA show in 2001. I wasn’t sure they were still around. They have been around for a very long time. In fact they have been open since 1898 according to their website. They are the oldest picture framing service in St. Louis. I’m not sure if they have always been in the same location though. Further down is a building I have passed many times in my car and have wondered about it. It a building for the National Electric Company. It has a limestone facade in an Art Deco style. It does have some relief ornamentation and some ironwork above the doorways. Plus I like the sign. Other than that it is not that extraordinary. I continue down to Jefferson.

I know I’m going to dislike this part of the ride. There is not much to look at but that’s probably a good thing because even though there is a bike lane, there is a lot of traffic on this wide road. There is not much of a shoulder and there is a large part that is a bridge. There’s also no shade and on a day that is already hot and is quickly heating up, it’s just not fun. I’m concentrating on traffic and doing what I can to keep myself safe. I think once I cross Chouteau, I’ll feel better. That’s not the case. The dedicated bike lane ends and now I’m in four-lane traffic. I then make a turn into The Gate District as soon as I can. I can take side streets but once I get to I-44 I’ll have to get back on Jefferson where there are entrance and exit ramps for the highway. I’ll probably have to take the lane and that rarely makes people in cars happy. What matter is that I am safe. Once I get past the highway, it’s all good.

storefrontart

Why on Earth do I want to ride down Jefferson? First I want to get a closer look at the California Do-nut sign building. Second there are some interesting houses, old signage and buildings from here to Cherokee Street. I determine Cherokee Street will be my southern boundary. Plus the traffic has thinned out a little bit. While biking I realize there is some interesting storefront art from one that is covered in cat silhouettes to the street art of 2222, Peat Wollaeger’s place. There’s a storefront covered in collaged pictures of animals, Albert Einstein and bright colors. This place would be hard to see by car because it is blocked by a large trailer. As I get closer to Gravois, the traffic gets heavier. I get some pictures of The Palms sign that is on the storefront of the Way Out Club. My guess is that there was a place called The Palms here but when the Way Out Club opened, they couldn’t bear to take the cool old sign down. I think of a mid-century bar with tiki decor or maybe something that has a Las Vegas Rat Pack vibe. Anyway, I wait for the red light to change to green. I’m surrounded by cars and their hot exhaust, the sun beating down. I gaze at the tattoo shop and the sculpture-like bike rack. Must keep an eye on the traffic signal because once the green light signals I must race to the other side.

calidonut

I finally come upon the California Do-Nut building. I notice it’s a favorite amongst photographers and is a great bit of neon signage from the 1940s. The California is in a cursive script style and the Do-nut is a bold san-serif style. the metal sign above the storefront takes on a green and white color just like the building. There is an additional vertical “Donuts”sign along the southwest corner on the second story. Originally, it was opened in 1948 by Henry J. Bielefeld and churned out homemade donuts to the neighborhood for decades. As far as I know, someone is working on opening a donut place here again. It looks like some work is going on. The great thing is I hear they want to keep the old sign.

bentonpark-houseI get toward Arsenal and Benton Park, the street gets a little more residential. In fact there are some large victorian era houses – some Romanesque Revival, Richardson Romanesque with big towers and large arched windows and entries. It’s tree lined so there’s some shade. Eventually I turn down some side streets in the Benton Park West neighborhood. I meander around looking at the brick houses. I spot a plain white hipped flounder type house on an alley. I’m always looking out for flounders. It is a little odd in how it is raised. the front door is a good 6-10 feet from the ground. I think I’ve mentioned several times that it’s hot and I’m getting close to Cherokee. I get a picture of an old mid-century looking bank that doesn’t look open and then I get on Cherokee and start heading back. At this point, I just want to get back. I can take Cherokee down to South Broadway and ride straight into downtown. Going down Cherokee is a downward slope but instead of going straight to Broadway, I veer onto Lemp and head to Arsenal. From there I’ll hit Broadway. I fly downhill in canyon the Anheuser-Busch complex.

Once I get on Broadway there is almost absolutely no shade. I keep my head down and just focus on pedaling and keeping a decent pace. It’s mostly flat but it’s a wide and busy road mostly. It’s Sunday morning so it’s not too bad except for a few big rigs that pass. The bike lane is ok. I don’t like the ones directly on the curb because a lot debris seems to gather here. This can be broken glass, to trash, broke car parts. In some places I ride outside the bike lane if I can. Eventually Broadway turns to 7th St and I hit the bar section near Busch Stadium. Some of the buildings are covered in graffiti and are pretty ratty looking. Though some are starting to get fixed up. I’d think there’d be more development because of the stadium. This area has many large empty lots but are used for parking when there is a baseball game. I cross under the web of dark steel railroad trestles, now Broadway again and then turns to 4th St (confusing?). I head up a slight incline past the Tums building, the high-rise hotels, past the old Courthouse. I’m almost back to my starting point. The next challenge is the mashup of streets that weave around under I-70. From there I coast down Biddle. Drenched and done. I forget about the annoyance from when I started. I still figured out what to do and still did what I set out to do. It wasn’t how I planned but I was able to figure out my route and get past the irritation. I could have just quit and went home but through all my complaining and irritation, I stayed resilient. The bit thing is I need to learn to stay calm and not let annoyances get to me as I’m getting through the tough parts. I’m tougher than I think I am.

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comptonheights1

Killing Time Along Russell

It is rare for me to do a mid-week bike ride but I had some time and was feeling inspired. First of all I was included as one of the “10 Amazing St. Louis Photographers to Follow on Instagram” by Fox 2 News in St. Louis. It was quite a surprise and I am familiar with and respect many of the people on that list. I have found Instagram a very creating, inspiring and positive place if you use it in a way that is creative, inspiring and positive. It’s been a great place to show my art, my process of making art, and the things that inspire my art.

Plus I was going to go to a lecture by Michael Allen at Ritz Park on South Grand later that evening. I always find his tours, presentations and lectures thoughtful and informative. Anyway, I had a good three hours to kill. My bike is handy so I thought I would take a ride in the neighborhoods nearby: Tower Grove East, Compton Heights, and Fox Park. These are not new areas but every time I bike somewhere I see new things and the built environment changes too. The changes can be interesting and frustrating but that is the nature of the places that we inhabit. We humans are always making our mark and adding to the layers of history.

comptonheights1Less than a week before this ride, Ben and I did the Compton Heights House Tour – which was great. While doing the tour I had the thought that I should explore more and take a look at some of the places that were not on the tour. I started near the Compton Heights Water Tower at Grand and Russell. Russell is a fantastic street to bike down. If you start in Soulard and just head west you will see an interesting evolution of buildings, houses, street grids. The street itself goes through many changes – from being a wide street to being a divided street, to a narrow street. Many times these changes coincide with the change of neighborhood. It reflects the fact that the city grid was created by developers of the neighborhoods. I have a similar opinion of St. Louis Avenue on the north side. Both are east/west streets and in a way, you follow the westward expansion of the city and see how the architecture and neighborhoods changes over time. Anyway, my bike ride mostly straddled Russell but branched as far south as Pestalozzi and as far north as Geyer.

Compton Heights is one of the great neighborhoods in St. Louis. Russell goes right through the heart of Compton Heights. It’s mostly a clean grid but with a serpentine circle that is enclosed within that grid. It is shady with large old trees. The streets of Hawthorne and Longfellow are quiet, serene, shaded and bounded by mostly large old mansions from the turn of the 19th/20th century. There’s houses that range from Richardson Romanesque, Chateau style, Greek Revival, Beaux Arts, Arts and Crafts and there are even some smaller Tudor Revival, southwestern and mid-century style houses thrown in. There is a lot of variety. On Russell and surrounding streets are there are some equally great houses and one is the Magic Chef Mansion on Russell. Just across the street is the reservoir and the old Compton Hill Water Tower.

The land Compton Heights resides on started out as part of the St. Louis Commons. St. Louis City hugged close to the river and there were several prairies or cultivating fields that were shared by all the city residents. Any resident of the city could grow food, raise livestock, hunt, collect firewood. As the city grew rapidly into the 1850s the city annexed the land. The Compton reservoir was built in 1871. If you look at the neighborhood in the 1875 Compton and Dry map, it looks like much of the land that has gone to make up this neighborhood was dotted with ponds, springs, valleys, and maybe sinkholes. Today there is no trace of that. There is still natural beauty but it more of the human hand.

Keeping with a lot of residential development in St. Louis, Compton Heights was a planned development. It was bought, laid out and subdivided by local investors in the late 1880s. This was common in the city and helps explain the disjointedness of the city grids. It can be frustrating as a person that is not familiar with the area but as a person who enjoys exploring I find it delightful.

By 1890 the first building permits were issued but development was slow. The neighborhood was unique at that time in that as it was developed it was landscaped, Julius Pitzman laid out the streets in conjunction to the landscape to create a natural aesthetic so residents didn’t seem subjugated to a rigid grid. It was also the first planned subdivision with deed restrictions which still apply today. It’s part of the reason why, when many areas fell out of favor or into disrepair, or subdivided into flats or rooming houses in the 1930s through the 1950s, Compton Heights retained its integrity.

housestablizeThe neighborhood was rocked by the The Great St. Louis Tornado of 1896 and the selling of tracts was negatively affected by a nationwide depression. To speed up the sale of lots, they were auctioned in 1902. By the time the 1904 World’s Fair came to the city, the neighborhood finally took off. I did note that all of the houses we toured were built in the late 1900s and early 1910s. It has stayed as an intact neighborhood ever since and today is seen as one of the most beautiful and maybe exclusive neighborhoods of the city. However, it isn’t as exclusive as the private places that inhabit parts of the city – streets where the public isn’t welcome and if you have no place there, you may be thrown out, ticketed or arrested for trespassing. At least in Compton Heights anyone can stroll or take a leisurely ride and enjoy the beautiful setting.

All the neighborhoods I rode around are mostly residential with a few restaurants and stores dotting the landscape. Tower Grove East and Fox Park are less exclusive and more middle-class to working class. In fact early working class German immigrants settled in the area between 1885 and 1915 and the architecture seems to reflect that. However, it has gone through some rough times recently but seems to be slowly rebounding. Though there are many ragged stretches as you get closer to Jefferson and Gravois. Tower Grove East, like Fox Park and many other neighborhoods, has deep German roots. Riding through it is hard to imagine a lot of this land as prairie but at one time this was the La Petite Prairie – common grazing and farming land – in the 1700s. By the early 19th century this system was being abandoned and the land was being sold into private hands. Germans started setting in the area in the 1840s and much of this land was bought by German immigrants. As the German immigrants became come prosperous, they developed many blocks and built grand homes. Many of which survive today. They are not the mansions of Compton Heights and they don’t have large lots. Tower Grove East’s development is more urban with narrow lots and houses that are situated closer together. Still is very beautiful with big mature trees and great brick architecture.

I saw some changes from the last time I rode around in the area. There is some rehabbing of some properties on Magnolia near California. Plus there have been some new houses built on Magnolia. There are still buildings that are empty and have deteriorated. I’m not sure of the reasoning but it seems most of the vacancy – from lots to houses and other buildings seen near Gravois. It would be nice if some of the vacant lots could be more developed to plug the holes in the neighborhood’s fabric.

stfrancisdesales

One of the surprises of my ride was the towering cathedral on Gravois – not that it was hidden. It is huge. It just dwarfs everything. Imposing Gothic Revival structure that could look a bit threatening with some dark clouds looming. The church is called St. Francis de Sales. It’s also known as the Cathedral of South St. Louis. It is the second largest Catholic Church in St. Louis (The largest being the Basilica on Lindell). The church itself was founded in 1867 and had a German immigrant congregation that reflected the surrounding neighborhoods. However, the original church was destroyed in the Great St. Louis Tornado in 1896. After that, did they give up? No. They rebuilt and rebuilt it larger and more grandiose. The new church was finished in 1908. It was hard to see them or get a good look at them from the outside but the stained glass windows were designed by Emil Frei Sr. The name may sound familiar because is studio Emil Frei Glass has designed a lot of stained glass in St. Louis and other places. They did the stained glass in the demolished modernist treasure, Lewis and Clark Library in Moline Acres. The building was demolished but the stained glass was saved and some is displayed on the new library. Emil Frei Glass was founded in 1898 and is still a family business. They have a website: click here to visit and learn about their history and see samples of their fantastic work.

It was a fairly short ride because I was killing time but in a place with a lot of history, the ride was still interesting and still filled with new discoveries (by this outsider). Eventually, I’ll get back out to see where Eads and Pitzman built their mansions that are now gone and keep on getting to know the area.